What is there to say about a place where you feel as though you’ve stepped back in time a century, where life seems invariably halted as if preserved inside a Petri dish? This phenomenon is known to the world as the Marrakech Medina, or “old city.” There is something magical in the sheer and utter chaos of life inside the Medina. Worn down cars having already survived nine lives share the street with swiftly moving scooters, donkey-run carriages and the ever-ubiquitous rusty wheelbarrow. It’s a miracle I was able to cross the street without being pummeled by a goat.
Just outside the Medina wall.
Life inside the Medina originates in its center, its crowning jewel, the Jemaa el-Fnaa square. Activity in the square mirrors the rest of Marrakech – it’s chaotic and fast-paced. Before your eyes can focus, a Moroccan monkey is being hurled on your shoulder and your sunglasses are being noticeably stripped from your face by a feisty chimp. There is always at least one snake charmer in the square, perched on a Moroccan rug with his cobra and viper. Lining the square are food stalls selling dried fruit and nuts and fresh-squeezed orange and grapefruit juice. By night, the square is transformed into a massive food court, with hundreds of numbered stalls serving up everything from lamb’s head to snails. The energy is palpable.
Snake charmer.
Feisty chimps.
Surrounding the square are the souks, traditional open-air markets, selling various wares from serving dishes and lamps to silver jewelry and trinkets. Bargaining is par for the course in the souks, and you’re likely to be cat-called by several vendors feverishly lowering their prices in a desperate attempt to strike up a deal. The souks are a kaleidoscope to the eye, garnished with rich colors and vibrant hues. A walk through the souks is likely to yield at least one pharmacy, where chemists petal all sorts of traditional Moroccan natural remedies. Argan oil, native to the country and found in several commercial hair products, is a staple. Be careful though, you may end up with a “free massage” and several unwanted massage oils if you aren’t assertive enough to stand your ground!
Souks.
Moroccan lamps.
Pharmacy.
The Medina sprawls outward from the Jemaa el-Fnaa in a series of seemingly unending passages. Unlike typical structures found in the Western world, the buildings in Marrakech are built directly into the walls. Large wooden doors are unassuming in nature, dropping few hints as to what treasures may lie behind them. Our riad (traditional Moroccan guest house with an interior courtyard), located in the Kasbah section of the Medina, was no exception.
Riad Dar Karma.
Riad Dar Karma, our home-away-from-home, donned a grand courtyard, a plunge pool, and an airy roof deck. Jasmine tea and fresh-baked pastries were served on arrival. Our suite came complete with decadent wooden ceilings, a four-post canopy bed, and a Moroccan-tile-lined open-air shower (also known as “heaven”). The large wooden door to our suite utilized no lock, only a heavy metal bar, and opened up to a beautiful private patio adorned with Moroccan light fixtures and an equally impressive carved ceiling. Riad Dar Karma felt like another world. The interior of Dar Karma was a serene respite from the chaos of the Kasbah. Birds chirped, and leaves on the orange trees lining the courtyard rustled in the breeze. The only outside noise to permeate the walls of the riad was the daily call to prayer, a welcome reminder of our location in the world. The riad was full service, providing a traditional Moroccan breakfast of yogurts and fruits at the location of our choice each morning. We even had a private dinner cooked for us one night, which we fondly recall being one of the best meals we had in Marrakech. Riad Dar Karma also boasts a traditional hammam which the staff opened for us at request.
Tea and fresh-baked pastries served on arrival.
Courtyard.
Plunge pool.
Private terrace overlooking the courtyard.
Suite 2.
Open-air shower. Amazing.
Private terrace.
Hammam.
The most magical thing about Marrakech is its people. Well sure, they can be pushy with their wares, and fervent with their fees for things you didn’t know you wanted and never actually asked for (think monkeys being thrown at you from all angles), but their energy and charisma is unique. Their outlook on life, their friendly and welcoming nature, and their positivity left on me a lasting impression.
This guy really wanted to sell us a scarf.
Such a versatile piece of cloth!
The New York City hat sealed the deal!
Thumbs up!
People in Morocco really like to give the thumbs up!
Word.
Pretty sure I just scored some free O.J.
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