Last weekend, I had some delicious paella at a Puerto Rican restaurant in my neighborhood. It got me thinking about the paella I ate on the “playa” in Ibiza. I had been craving paella like this ever since my last trip to Spain. On that particular trip, I’d been traveling through Spain and Morocco and was booked on an EasyJet flight from Marrakech to Madrid the day before I was scheduled to fly back to New York. All I wanted in the world was to eat paella one last time before leaving Spain.
Turns out – EasyJet – not so easy! My flight from Marrakech was cancelled due to a lack of crew, and I had to pay about $400 USD to fly Royal Air Maroc back to Madrid in time to catch my Transatlantic flight home. (Note: After several letters to EasyJet, my original fare and the Royal Air Maroc fare were both refunded.) This flight came complete with a five hour layover in Casablanca – just enough time to set foot on Casablancan soil. I didn’t arrive in Madrid until after 10pm, there was hardly a restaurant open, and I left Madrid sans paella.
This was my third trip to Spain and I spent the majority of time in Ibiza. The beginning of my trip, like the latter end, was fraught with travel snafus. I flew through Madrid from JFK to meet my then-boyfriend in Ibiza for the opening parties. He had arrived earlier in the week to attend the International Music Summit. My flight from Madrid to Ibiza was cancelled and my Transatlantic redeye was followed by a seven hour layover in Madrid. When I finally arrived in Ibiza, my luggage, like the assistance counter, was nowhere to be found. I teamed up with another American who had flown through Charles De Gaulle in Paris in an attempt to locate our lost belongings. Apparently, all bags originating outside Spain were delivered to a remote carousel without notification. My next hurdle came when my bank unknowingly flagged my ATM card and the taxis at the airport didn’t take credit. Lucky for me, I found a sweet Spanish cab driver to escort me to Hotel Es Vive in Ibiza Town, where my ex was waiting (and able to foot the bill).
Ibiza has a widely known reputation for being a party island – several international brands such as Pacha and Space have a flagship club in Ibiza. I was greeted at the airport with “Welcome to Ibiza” signs donning the Club Amnesia logo. It was difficult to escape the party-like atmosphere on the island. I was there for the opening parties, the official kick-off to the summer club season in Ibiza. During the opening parties, Space opens the parking lot outside the club for its “parking lot party,” and the entire parking lot is transformed into a massive dance floor. DC10 reopened just in time for my arrival, and our last party of the trip was the Circo Loco party (translated “crazy circus”). The coolest thing about DC10 was its proximity to the airport; I could literally feel the jet stream as planes took off and landed.
Opening night at Pacha.
Opening weekend at Space.
In the space DJ booth with Carl Cox.
In the Space DJ booth with Steve Lawler.
Space parking lot party.
Circo Loco at DC10.
Because my ex spent so much time in Ibiza, I decided to wander the island by myself the morning after I arrived. I strolled down Ibiza Town’s promenade all the way to Dalt Vila, the old stone-walled city once built to protect the island from invaders. Through the drawbridge entrance, Dalt Vila was home to a castle and a lookout with several cannons. I felt as though I had been transported back to medieval times. A walk through Dalt Vila took me through several winding cobblestone alleys housing small residences. During the day, many areas of Dalt Vila were empty, but at night, several restaurants opened and a new energy was breathed into the area. We had a lovely meal one night at La Torreta in Dalt Vila. I love dining in Mediterranean countries – they always serve the freshest olives in lieu of bread.
Dalt Vila.
Dalt Vila at night.
Dalt Vila at night.
We rented a scooter one night and scooted to the western side of the island, to the town of San Antonio, home to a famously beautiful sunset. Each evening, crowds gather on the rocky beaches to watch the sun go down. Two well-known restaurants call San Antonio their home – Cafe del Mar (yes, the same Cafe del Mar as the record label), and Cafe Mambo, the newer of the duo. It being my first time on the island, I felt compelled to take a stroll through the famous Cafe del Mar, but ultimately set up shop on the terrace at Cafe Mambo. The bright orange and red hues of the sunset did not disappoint.
Cafe del Mar.
Sunset from Cafe Mambo.
We spent one day at Playa Sa Caleta, about a 15-minute drive from Ibiza Town and home to Restaurant Sa Caleta. The beach at Sa Caleta was surrounded by rocky red cliffs and was relatively private. I was traveling with several people who had been to Ibiza numerous times and were kind enough to share this hidden gem with me. It was off the tourist track and the isolated beach was relatively empty. The restaurant was directly up the beach with a view of the cliffs and the water. It was the perfect place to spend an afternoon. More importantly, it was the perfect spot to eat the paella which, until a few days ago, I was still craving…
Sa Caleta.
View of Playa Sa Caleta from Restaurant Sa Caleta.
Calamari.
The paella!
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