How to Get to the Maeklong Railway Market

The Maeklong Railway Market is a peculiar Thai market located about 70 kilometers outside Bangkok (scroll down for directions from Bangkok).  The 2 hour trip from Bangkok is a bit dodgy, but totally worth it.  Some background: The market was in existence prior to the railway, and when the Thai government decided to build a railway through the market, the Thai people improvised.  And so, a train runs directly through the market multiple times each day.  When you arrive at the market, you will be on the train, and you too will pass directly through the market (as pictured below).

The market is a massive covered market selling fruits, vegetables and seafood of all kinds. Walking through the market entails walking directly between the train tracks.  So, toss out everything your mother told you about not playing on train tracks, and get ready to wander through the most dangerous market in the world.

A few minutes before the train runs through the market, vendors lower their awnings and everyone stands back from the tracks.

Here, you can see a train begin to pass through the market.  Nuts!

Getting closer!  Amazingly, none of those vegetables got destroyed.  Vendors have figured out exactly how to position their produce so it narrowly escapes being crushed multiple times each day.

Holding on for dear life!

After the train passes, business resumes as usual.  You’d think there would be a more efficient way to deal with this, but the market continues to operate as it did before the railway was in existence.

The Market

The market itself is fantastic.  In addition to fruits and vegetables, the market is located close to a fishing port and you’ll find a lot of fresh seafood.  One way to gauge the authenticity and quality of a market is to see how many Thai people are shopping there.  Given its far proximity from Bangkok, there was a distinct local flavor that I really enjoyed.

Eel.  STILL ALIVE.

Fishies.  20 Baht – $0.65.

Fresh squid.

Not really sure what this is, but that’s one of the reasons I love local markets.

More fresh fishies.

The Neighborhood

The area near the Maeklong Railway Market is worth exploring, and depending on the timing of your trains, you may have lots of time to.  Running parallel to the market is a street with several little restaurants and shops.  It’s hot, and there’s no A/C, so grab a cold beer and sweat it out somewhere.

Thai noodle soup.

Butter Cup Cake from an amazing little bakery next door.

How to get to the Maeklong Railway Market

Start at the Wong Wian Yai train station in Bangkok.  There will usually be a 7:30am train and a 9:30am train to Mahachai, though the schedule may change, so you’ll want to check in advance. Wong Wian Yai will be the first stop on the line and Mahachai will be the last, so it’s fairly easy to figure out.  You’ll want to take one of the early trains, because the journey is long and you’ll want time to actually see a train run through the market after you arrive.  Any later, and you risk missing it.

I won’t lie – the area around Wong Wian Yai is a bit shady.  There will be people everywhere, stray dogs walking across the tracks and loud motors of tuk tuks whizzing by.  Don’t let it deter you.  The trip is worth it.

The train itself is also a bit shady.  It’s loud, rickety and old, and you’ll probably feel as though it could break down at any moment.  Prior to departure, people will be passing through the train in order to cross the tracks.  There are no screens on the windows and they’ll be wide open.  There were definitely moments prior to departure when I seriously contemplated getting off this train.  I weigh 100 pounds wet, am clearly not Thai, was traveling alone, wearing a DSLR camera, and generally looked helpless.  After the train departed, I discreetly folded 1200 Baht and hid it inside my bra.  I figured if everything got stolen, at least I’d be able to get back to Bangkok and to the American Embassy.  There is something about being so far out of your comfort zone that is both scary and exhilarating.  But as scared as I was, the trip is safe and you shouldn’t worry.

You will be on this train for 1 hour.  You’ll pass a handful of train stations, and you can follow along if you have a schedule.  On the way, you’ll see many of the canals that have been closed over the years transforming what used to be the Venice of SE Asia into the Bangkok we know today.  There will be times you’ll pass what appears to be undeveloped jungle, and you might feel as though you’re in the middle of nowhere.  Be careful if you’re sitting close to a window, as the branches will come through the windows and hit you in the head.

An hour later, you’ll arrive at Mahachai station.  It will be the last stop, so you won’t miss it.  Exit the train left and walk through the station.

When you get through the station, make a right and walk through the fish market.  Follow this street all the way to its end.

When you reach the end of the street, you should see a ferry on your left.  Take the ferry across the river to Ban Laem.  It’s a quick and scenic journey.

When you exit the ferry, walk through the covered market and turn right when you reach the street.  Follow this street all the way to Ban Laem station.  The walk will take you around 10 minutes.

Ban Laem is the first stop on the line to Maeklong.  When you get to Ban Laem station, you may have to wait a bit for the next train to leave.  There is a place to buy water and snacks.

The area around Ban Laem is interesting and worth exploring if you have time.

From Ban Laem, you will board another train for approximately 1 hour.  Again, you will take the train to the last stop.  You’ll know you have arrived, as the train will pass directly through the market (as pictured above).  Hop up front with the conductor to get the best view.

This is a serious journey.  Of everything I saw and did in Thailand, this was probably my favorite day.  My experience didn’t end there though.  From the Maeklong Railway Market, there is a tuk tuk you can take with the Thai folks to Amphawa Floating Market (another reason to take the earliest train possible).  The last train from Maeklong usually leaves around 5:30pm.  Make sure you don’t miss it, or you’ll be stuck in Maeklong until the following morning.

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